The Backward Walking Job in Quang Binh - A Unique Profession along the Gianh River

No one remembers exactly when this backward-walking trade began. Even the village elders can only vaguely recall following their parents to the sea since childhood, dividing areas among themselves and quietly immersing their bodies in the water, dragging rakes through the sand beneath the clear blue water. Each rake pull reveals small sea clams, baby crabs, sea snails, and even a few starfish—gifts of the ocean for the children of the salty sea.  

This trade does not make them rich, but it provides extra income to stabilize their lives and pay for their children's education. Poor residents along the Gianh River, such as in Phu Hoa, Quang Tien, Quang Trung, or the coastal areas of Quang Phu, Quang Dong, and Bao Ninh, spend their days wading in the water, pacing back and forth amidst scorching sun or sudden rain showers.  

Under the intense mid-day heat, one can sometimes hear their laughter echoing, blending with the gentle sound of ocean waves. They avoid tourist bathing spots and head for quiet stretches of sand where, based on experience, they are likely to find "blessings of the sea". Sometimes it is pure luck, but to them, the sea remains a lifeline and a companion through generations.  

The equipment for walking backward is far from complicated—just a rake about 1.2 meters long and a welded mesh sieve to filter sand. Placing the rake level with the water's surface, each backward pull is done with diligent care. Simple as they are, these tools serve as the vital lifeline for many families, bound like flesh and blood to the coastal inhabitants.  

This clam raking relies heavily on the tides. High waters and rough waves make raking impossible, while extreme low tides leave no clams behind. Positioning the rake at just the right depth requires finesse: too deep and the sand becomes too heavy to pull; too shallow and no clams are found. Conical hats tilted toward the water, hunched figures laboriously raking stroke by stroke, stepping backward while dragging the rake, then bending to sift the sand. Robust hands, honey-tanned skin weathered by sun and wind, feet softened and wrinkled from soaking in water—all captured in the image of industrious fishermen by the sea.  

As the sun rises higher and the heat intensifies, sweat breaks out, blending with the salty seawater. They gather to count the tiny clams harvested, sift out broken shells, and release small crabs and wriggling starfish back into the sea. Unaccustomed workers can easily get heatstroke, and soaking feet leads to raw, discolored skin, yet the locals patiently persevere, for this is their livelihood and the sustenance of their entire family.  

Thus, those backward steps on the white sand and clear blue water press persistently onward, like the peaceful coastline flowing continuously to nourish generations of simple, resilient fishing communities.

The most precious reward of this backward-stepping trade is chắt chắt (tiny baby clams), a famous mollusk species of the Gianh River region. Chắt chắt meat is sweet, rich, highly nutritious, and usually appears in abundance after heavy rains, when freshwater from upstream blends with brackish water near the river mouth.

After harvesting, people soak the chắt chắt to release all sand, wash them thoroughly, and prepare various local dishes rich in home flavors such as stir-fried chắt chắt, chắt chắt soup, chắt chắt porridge, chắt chắt fermented sauce, or simply boiled to preserve their natural sweetness. Not only a source of income for riverside residents, chắt chắt is also a familiar delicacy in family meals, local markets, and rustic eateries. This humble gift from the Gianh River contributes to the unique culinary culture of Quang Binh, leaving an unforgettable impression on every visitor.

Although it does not generate high income, the backward-walking trade remains a resilient livelihood for many families along the Gianh River. More than just a job to make ends meet, the trade reflects the diligence, resilience, and adaptability of the people of Quang Binh—people who have been attached to the river and its tides across many generations.

However, faced with the changes of modern life, this traditional trade is confronting numerous challenges. Income depends on weather and tides, aquatic resources are depleting due to environmental impacts and mechanized harvesting, while the strenuous nature of the labor leaves the younger generation less interested in continuing their ancestors' craft.

In addition to its economic value, the backward-walking trade is a part of the cultural memory of the Gianh River—a river that has witnessed many historical pages of the country and serves as a symbol of the Quang Binh countryside. Preserving this traditional trade means preserving a simple labor beauty, contributing to the conservation of cultural identity and a livelihood story that has persistently endured through time.

Amidst the fast pace of modern life, when many traditional crafts gradually fade into the past, the backward-walking trade on the Gianh River quietly perseveres as a living testament to the deep bond between humans and nature. Those backward steps on the tidal flats are not merely a means of earning a living, but also a symbol of diligence, overcoming hardship, and the deep love the people of Quang Binh hold for the river that has nourished so many generations. If you have the chance to visit Quang Binh, take a moment to pause by the Gianh River when the tide recedes. The sight of workers quietly stepping backward across the sand will help you better feel the simple beauty of this land, where every traditional trade carries a cherished story that shapes the unique identity of Quang Binh today.