Pho Lai Lime and Paper Craft in Cam Lo: Preserving Ancient Papermaking Secrets and the Soul of Quang Tri

Pho Lai is situated on the southern bank of Hoi Song, in Cam An Commune, Cam Lo District (Quang Tri), a land with a favorable location intersecting waterways such as Hoi Song, the Hieu River, and the ancient Thien Ly land route. This advantage enabled Pho Lai to early form and develop traditional trade, handicraft, and commercial activities. For a long time, the village has been famous for two characteristic handicrafts: making boi paper (handmade do paper) and lime slaking. Among them, the lime slaking craft is still maintained on a small scale, serving traditional construction needs and local daily life. In contrast, papermaking was once highly developed but gradually faded after 1975; however, it remains deeply imprinted in the community's memory through the familiar landmark "Cau Phuong Giay" (Paper Guild Bridge).

Although established later than many other ancient villages in Cam Lo, Pho Lai quickly became an important goods production point in the region. Products like paper and lime not only met self-sufficiency needs but were also traded and sold at major market sessions like Song Market and Phien Market – bustling commercial hubs of ancient Quang Tri. Today, the village still retains the characteristic peacefulness of the North Central countryside with images of rice fields, water wells, banyan trees, and a simple rhythm of manual labor.

In addition to economic value, Pho Lai stands out for its strong community cohesion. The local people not only preserve traditional crafts but also safeguard ancestral customs and traditions, including many families originating from Tuy Loc (Quang Binh). All of these create a Pho Lai rich in identity, serving as a living testament to the industriousness, creativity, and strong adaptability of Quang Tri people across generations.

Pho Lai Village was formed around the mid-16th century when the Nguyen family from Hai Duong arrived to reclaim the land and settle down. Initially named Tuy An (located north of Hoi Song), the area was later merged into Pho Lai while maintaining the distinct customs and practices of its original community. The papermaking craft in Pho Lai originated from migrants from Tuy Loc Village (Quang Binh) who moved to this land. They brought with them the technique of producing boi paper from do tree bark – a popular traditional handicraft in ancient Vietnamese society. Benefiting from proximity to abundant raw material sources in the Truong Son forests, where the Bru - Van Kieu and Ta Oi ethnic groups supplied do bark, the papermaking craft developed rapidly and became a vital livelihood for local residents.

Alongside papermaking was the lime slaking craft, developed based on available limestone sources in the area and traditional manual burning techniques. These two crafts were closely linked to agricultural life and once served as the main source of income for many households in the village. Over time, papermaking gradually declined, but the lime craft is still maintained today, contributing to local economic stability. Pho Lai was also an important link in Cam Lo's diverse network of craft villages, connecting with neighboring craft villages such as Cam Thach (rice noodle making), votive paper making, and traditional bronze casting. Through many historical vicissitudes, wars, and socio-economic transitions, Pho Lai has retained the "soul" of an ancient craft village, standing as a representative symbol of the enduring vitality of Quang Tri culture.

The process of making Pho Lai paper requires meticulousness and care through many stages, often lasting for weeks. The main raw material is do tree bark (do bu or do niet) and sometimes dưong bark.

• Preparation of raw materials: Do bark bought from the forest is soaked in water for 2 days to soften. It is then soaked in clear lime water, bundled, and dipped in concentrated lime water.
• Cooking and bark stripping: The bark is boiled in a large cauldron/pot for 5-7 shifts of time (about 10-14 hours) until completely soft. It is taken out and washed clean. The outer green silk bark layer is peeled off (used for rough coarse paper), while the inner white core is soaked in lime water again and then pounded.
• Pounding the pulp: A heavy task undertaken by men. Heavy wooden/stone mortars and iron-capped jackfruit/lim wooden pestles are used. Pounding continues until the pulp becomes loose, pliable, and sticky. The rhythmic sound of pestles once resounded across the village.
• Washing and mixing: The pulp is washed clean of residue and soaked in fresh water. Sticky extract from boi loi tree bark (or modern substitutes) is added to create adhesion.
• Scooping paper (Xeo giay): Skillfully performed by women using a bamboo/wooden frame and a bamboo screen mold. The pulp is poured into the mold and tilted evenly to form a thin layer, which is then lifted out, pressed to drain water, and dried into sheets of paper.

Pho Lai paper is famous for being white, smooth, and durable when using good do bark and proper techniques. There were high-grade calligraphy writing papers as well as coarse papers used for wrapping goods, fan making, and votive paper items. The entire process is environmentally friendly, utilizing natural materials.

Visiting Pho Lai craft village, tourists will have the opportunity to step into a traditional cultural space preserving many ancient handicraft traces, where rural life harmonizes with traditional crafts passed down through generations.

During the journey of discovery, visitors can:

• Observe the actual production process: Visit households still maintaining the lime slaking craft, learn about kiln firing and manual lime grinding, and explore remaining traces of traditional papermaking.
• Interact with local people: Listen to craft stories from elderly artisans, learning basic folk techniques like pulp pounding or paper scooping.
• Explore the countryside space: Stroll along Hoi Song, visit Paper Guild Bridge (Cau Phuong Giay) and local religious structures like communal houses and temples, while enjoying rustic local cuisine in nearby areas like Cam Thach rice noodles.
• Shop for local products: Purchase traditional lime products or handmade souvenirs from neighboring craft villages as keepsakes.

With its peaceful space, hospitable people, and rich cultural values, Pho Lai is an ideal destination for craft village tours, especially suited for educational activities and traditional craft heritage exploration for students and culture-loving travelers.

The papermaking and lime slaking crafts in Pho Lai Village are not just about handmade products, but also represent cultural identity and memories of a vibrant development era in Quang Tri. Although time has led to the decline of some crafts, the spirit of diligence, creativity, and love for the craft still flows in the veins of the local people. 

Preserving and promoting these traditional values is not only the community's responsibility but also an opportunity for future generations to better understand their roots and identity. It is hoped that stories of Pho Lai craft village will continue to be told and shared, perhaps through cultural discovery journeys with Sovaba Travel, so that this precious heritage endures forever with time.