Ancient French villas in Bach Ma forest: Imprints of time amidst pristine nature

Few people know that Bach Ma National Park today once had a very different appearance. From the early 20th century, the French administration in Indochina began searching for high-mountain areas with cool climates to develop stations d’altitude – high-altitude hill stations for the summer. At an altitude of over 1,400 m, an average temperature of about 20°C, beautiful landscapes, and located only about 40 km from Hue, Bach Ma quickly caught their attention. In 1932, M. Girard, a public works engineer in Annam, was recorded as the person who surveyed and proposed developing the summit of Bach Ma; some documents also mention engineer Raoul Desmarest. From then on, the mountain area that once had only footpaths for walkers and sedan chairs began to see investment in road construction. Around 1933–1934, the road to Bach Ma was gradually expanded for automobile access, laying the first bricks for the formation of a famous hill resort on the mountain peak later on.

By April 1936, the construction of houses and villas in Bach Ma was specifically regulated. Land was subdivided and auctioned at preferential prices, paving the way for a true resort to take shape in the forest. In the late 1930s and early 1940s, Bach Ma had around 130–139 structures. Besides villas and chalets, there were also the Morin Hotel, a post office, tennis courts, a swimming pool, a market, and religious facilities. In 1939, the area was organized under an urban status and became a resort visited by French officials, officers, merchants, alongside a section of mandarins and the elite of the Nguyen dynasty.

Then history turned the page. In 1945, Japanese troops occupied the area, causing the resort to gradually become deserted. War and time continued to leave heavy marks. A place that once had hotels, villas, swimming pools, and bustling vacation days was left with only scattered old architectural fragments beneath the forest canopy. And precisely those remnants make a very different Bach Ma today.

What makes the old French villas in Bach Ma remarkable is not just their age, but also how the buildings were set within the mountains and forests. European architecture was brought to the high mountains without being detached from the surrounding landscape; on the contrary, houses, gardens, hillsides, and primeval forests almost became part of the same space. The structures formerly consisted mainly of wooden villas in the French-Swiss chalet style and sturdier stone villas built to adapt to the mountain climate. The roofs were usually sloped, using weather-resistant materials; many were 1–2 stories high, featuring large windows, arched doorways, European-style decorations, and indoor fireplaces.

An interesting point is that the location of each house was carefully calculated. Many structures sat on hillsides or elevated areas, taking advantage of the natural terrain while opening up sweeping views of Lang Co Bay, Truoi Lake and primeval forests. Some properties once featured gardens, swimming pools, and concrete paths leading up the mountain, showing that Bach Ma was invested in at the time as a real resort area.

But perhaps it is today's solitude that makes those villas so special. What was once built to serve luxurious holidays now sits among forest trees, with some places reduced to stone walls, house foundations, or fragments of old architecture.

There were once about 139 villas and guesthouses built on the summit of Bach Ma, but over time, most structures have not remained intact. War, harsh weather, and many years in the forest led to the gradual degradation of these once-bustling facilities. Today, in Bach Ma National Park, visitors may sometimes only encounter a mossy stone wall, a few steps, an old foundation, or an architectural feature hidden behind tree canopies. Yet, these seemingly tiny traces help us envision a Bach Ma resort that vibrantly developed in the early 20th century.

Since the early 2000s, several villas were restored on their original architectural foundations to serve tourism, including Do Quyen, Phong Lan, and Cam Tu, depending on the time and operational status. The Morin Hotel is also a name tied to the history of the Bach Ma resort, still preserving traces that recall the era when this was a popular getaway destination. Therefore, exploring old French villas in Bach Ma is unlike a typical sightseeing tour. Walking through the forest, you might come across an old stone step, then see a moss-covered wall tucked behind giant tree trunks. These traces make people curious: Who did this house belong to? Were these paths busy in the past? What was Bach Ma like nearly a century ago?

On misty days, that story becomes even clearer. Old walls emerging and disappearing in the forest, deserted roads, and layers of moss accumulated over the years create a distinctive melancholic charm. That is precisely what makes the journey to rediscover traces of the old French hill resort in Bach Ma so intriguing: you do not merely see what remains, but also assemble for yourself each piece of memory of a Bach Ma that has journeyed through time.

Today, Bach Ma National Park is not only famous for its rich primeval forest ecosystem but is also recognized as an ASEAN Heritage Park. What creates Bach Ma's unique appeal is that you can encounter two seemingly distinct stories on the same journey: the remnants of an old French hill resort nestled within an almost pristine mountain forest.

1-day itinerary:

• Morning: Ascend Bach Ma summit, visit Hai Vong Dai (Sea Observation Post), enjoy views of Lang Co Bay and Cau Hai Lagoon.

• Lunchtime: Explore ancient villas such as Do Quyen, Phong Lan, Cam Tu, and discover remaining traces.

• Afternoon: Trekking Ngu Ho (Five Lakes) or Do Quyen Waterfall, enjoying the fresh air.

2-day 1-night itinerary: You can stay overnight in the Do Quyen area to experience Bach Ma at night, go cloud hunting, and watch the sunrise.

Note: Before travelling to Bach Ma National Park, you should check road conditions and weather, especially if visiting during the rainy season. For older structures, only view them from permitted areas and do not enter degraded places. If you want to experience Bach Ma at its finest, the period from February to August is usually favorable for exploration, with the rhododendron season being a highlight worth waiting for.

The ancient French villas in Bach Ma forest are not merely historical relics, but also vivid proof of the cultural and architectural harmony between East and West. To fully appreciate this beauty, taking a Bach Ma National Park tour will be an ideal choice. Beyond discovering ancient architectural works, visitors also have the chance to immerse themselves in majestic nature, conquer trekking routes, and enjoy rare, fresh air. This will surely be a memorable journey, taking you back to the past while harmonizing with the endless beauty of Bach Ma National Park today.