Playing Bai Choi Hoi An: Experiencing an Addictive Spiritual "Specialty" in the Heart of the Ancient Town

Hoi An Bai Choi is a unique folk art form of Central Vietnam, combining a game of chance card drawing with folk song performances. This game is set up with small "huts" – simple bamboo shelters where players sit and listen to "Anh Hieu" or "Chi Hieu" (the game hosts) chanting the names of the cards through witty folk melodies. More than just entertainment, Bai Choi is a blend of poetry, literature, and painting, reflecting the simple and optimistic life of the people of Quang Nam.

According to UNESCO, Bai Choi was recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2017, featuring two main forms: "playing Bai Choi" (focusing on the game) and "performing Bai Choi" (emphasizing artistic performance). In Hoi An, this game has become a spiritual "specialty," attracting visitors with its joyful, approachable vibe, and moral lessons conveyed through song lyrics.

Bai Choi originated in the 16th-17th centuries when people in Central Vietnam faced natural disasters and wild animals destroying their crops. They built high huts on the edge of the forest to guard their fields, and to pass the long, tedious nights, young men created a card-drawing game combined with singing. Initially just a pastime, it gradually evolved into a performing art with poignant lyrics inspired by Southern folk songs, classical Tuong opera, rhythmic work chants, and lullabies.

In the lives of Central Vietnamese people, Bai Choi holds profound significance as spiritual nourishment, bonding the community and conveying humanistic values. The lyrics often incorporate folk songs and proverbs that teach moral lessons, praising love for the homeland, hard work, and filial piety. For the people of Quang Nam – Da Nang, it is a symbol of optimism, helping them overcome hardships. Today, Bai Choi also contributes to preserving fading culture, communicating social policies, and serving as a bridge between tradition and modernity. It is not just a game, but also a way for visitors to touch the soul of Central Vietnam and better understand the simplicity and hospitality of the locals.

To experience Hoi An Bai Choi, you can head to main performance locations right in the heart of the ancient town. The most popular spot is An Hoi Sculpture Garden, a spacious open area along the romantic Hoai River, creating an ideal setting for this folk game. Here, a simple, rustic stage is set up with a central main hut surrounded by smaller huts, bringing a warm, intimate atmosphere like an ancient countryside village.

In addition, Bai Choi is also organized at major tourist complexes such as VinWonders Nam Hoi An (with a folk culture recreation area) or main streets in Hoi An town, especially during festivals. If you are further from the center, you can participate at Kazik Park or local cultural tours. 

Tip: Choose a location near Hoai River to combine watching lanterns and enjoying Hoi An's night atmosphere.

Hoi An Bai Choi takes place daily, mainly in the evening to take advantage of the cool and romantic atmosphere of the ancient town. The specific time usually starts from 7:00 PM and lasts until around 9:00 PM, depending on the number of players and the length of each game round. Previously, the game was only organized during Tet (Lunar New Year), village festivals, or early spring, but nowadays it has become a regular activity serving tourists.

On special occasions such as Tet, lantern festivals, or the Quang Nam Heritage Festival, Bai Choi will take place on a larger scale with cheerful, lively chants. If you visit Hoi An during peak season (March to September), it is easy to participate; during low season, you might need to check the schedule beforehand via travel websites or hotels.

The rules of Hoi An Bai Choi are simple yet full of surprises, keeping everyone captivated by the element of chance and the art of chanting. The card set consists of 33 cards (divided into 3 suits: Sach, Van, Van, each suit having 10 cards, plus 3 special extra cards like Cuu Dieu Den, Ong Am Den), painted on paper glued to bamboo strips with rustic names such as "Nhut Noc", "Nhi Ngheo", "Thang Bi", "La Lieu".

• Structure: There is a main hut (where Anh/Chi Hieu stands) and 4-5 sub-huts (for players). Each player chooses 3 different cards.
• Starting: The festive drums roll, Anh/Chi Hieu sings the opening and shakes the bamboo container to draw cards, calling out card names through witty rhymes (e.g., "The wild rooster with a bright red comb, tail spreading out like a palm fan").
• Playing: If a drawn card matches one of theirs, the player shouts "Co day!" ("Got it here!") or strikes the wooden block 3 times to receive a pennant flag. Upon getting 3 flags, the player shouts "Toi!" ("Win!") and rolls the wooden block continuously – the main drum beats aloud to announce the winner.
• Highlights: The chanting is flexible and improvised according to the situation, combining 4 traditional melodies (xang xe, ho quang, xuan nu, co ban). For foreign tourists, tour guides translate, turning the game into a cultural lesson. The prize is a Hoi An lantern or a souvenir, but the greatest joy is the laughter and relaxation.

By analogy, Bai Choi is somewhat similar to bingo/lotto, but enriched with folk music and theatrical interaction, creating a form of entertainment that is both accessible and rich in cultural value.

When participating in Hoi An Bai Choi for the first time, you might not be familiar with the rhythm of the game and the chanting style. However, with just a few tips below, joining in the fun will be much easier:

• Preparation: Purchase tickets (around 20,000-100,000 VND/card, depending on the venue) on site or through a tour. Dress comfortably and bring water as the atmosphere can get lively.
• Joining in: Arrive early to get a convenient seat and listen to the instructions from Anh/Chi Hieu. During the game, listen carefully to the chanting to recognize your card names. When your card matches, confidently call out or beat the wooden block according to instructions so as not to miss your turn.
• Useful tips: First-timers can choose to sit near the host area to easily follow the game. You can combine watching Bai Choi after strolling around the ancient town for a complete experience. Since the activity usually takes place outdoors, consider the rainy season (around October–December) to avoid impacting your schedule.

Bai Choi is not only a folk game but also the soul of Hoi An's cultural life, preserving traditional values passed down through generations. Amidst the night atmosphere of the ancient town, rustic chants, cheerful laughter, and community bonding create an emotionally rich experience, allowing visitors to easily connect and feel nostalgic. If you have the chance to visit Hoi An, do not miss out on playing Bai Choi to fully feel the local cultural rhythm, while enriching your heritage exploration journey with a unique spiritual mark.