Dau Temple Festival: The Sacred Shrine Dedicated to Holy Mother Lieu Hanh in Ninh Binh

Dau Temple is a place of worship closely linked to Mother Goddess beliefs and folklore passed down through generations in Ninh Binh. According to legend, the temple was built around 1580 to worship Holy Mother Lieu Hanh—a revered deity in the Mother Goddess worship of the Three and Four Realms among the Vietnamese.  As the lore recounts, the Holy Mother was Que Nuong, the daughter of the Jade Emperor, who descended to earth three times to assist the people. During her third descent, she transformed into an innkeeper at Quan Chao (near Dau Temple), teaching the local people how to cultivate mulberries, raise silkworms, and weave silk for a prosperous livelihood. She also miraculously manifested to assist King Quang Trung in defeating the Qing invaders in the year of Ky Dau (1789), liberating Thang Long. Landmarks such as Quan Chao Temple, Dau Temple, and Dong Giao have entered folk poetry: "Quan Chao - Dau Temple - Dong Giao are renowned landmarks cherished by the Vietnamese people for generations."

Beyond its connection to folk legends, Dau Temple is situated within the historic Tam Diep – Bien Son area, a region of key strategic significance across various periods of national history. According to historical records of the site, in 1592, Lord Trinh Tung stopped and rested in this area while leading troops to attack Dong Kinh. In late 1788, while preparing the major campaign against the Qing army, King Quang Trung gathered his forces at the Tam Diep defensive line, transforming this location into a crucial military staging ground before marching on Thang Long in the spring of Ky Dau (1789).

Entering the 20th century, Dau Temple continued to be intertwined with the local community's life. According to site records, in 1952, the 3rd Yen Son Commune Party Cell Congress was convened here during the resistance war against French colonial rule. This milestone demonstrates that the temple not only served as a pillar in spiritual life, but also once stood as a site tied to local revolutionary activities.

With its historical, cultural, and religious values, Dau Temple has been classified as a provincial historical and cultural relic. The complex is also set amidst the distinctive mountainous scenery of the Tam Diep region, regarded by locals through the lens of traditional feng shui, where the surrounding peaks form a harmonious landscape for this sacred place of worship.

The Dau Temple Festival is associated with two important milestones in folk religious life: the 15th day of the first lunar month and the 3rd day of the third lunar month. According to local traditions, the festival takes place from the 15th day of the first lunar month to the 3rd day of the third lunar month each year, serving as an occasion for locals and pilgrims from near and far to offer incense, pay homage to Holy Mother Lieu Hanh, and pray for peace, fortune, and harmony.

The 15th day of the first lunar month, or the Lantern Festival (Tet Nguyen Tieu), marks the official opening of the festival, associated with the legend of planting mulberry cuttings and the celebration of King Quang Trung’s victory. Meanwhile, the 3rd day of the third lunar month commemorates the death anniversary of Holy Mother Lieu Hanh, evoking the familiar folk saying "Mother's death anniversary in the third month." This is also an occasion of special significance for practitioners of Mother Goddess worship.

Although the official opening ceremony takes place on the full moon of the first lunar month, the festive atmosphere begins early in the month as pilgrims and tourists arrive in increasing numbers. Over time, several traditional rituals such as carrying the palanquin of statues or character formation choreography ("Mother of the Realm", "Peace under Heaven", etc.) are no longer regularly held. Instead, the festival today focuses on distinctive ceremonies such as spirit mediumship rituals, incense burner consecration, initiation rites, and female-led sacrificial ceremonies, contributing to the preservation of folk religious values. In local cultural life, the festival is also commemorated in folk verses, reflecting the devotion and respect of the people toward Mother Goddess worship:

"Wherever one may go, 

Come Lantern Festival, return to Dau Temple; 

No matter how busy life may be, 

At the Lantern Festival, return to Dau Temple." 

Lasting for nearly two months, the festival offers an opportunity for everyone to visit without overcrowding, particularly on weekends or the full moon.

Deeply imbued with the spirit of Mother Goddess worship, the Dau Temple Festival in Ninh Binh is an occasion for locals and pilgrims to express their reverence to Holy Mother Lieu Hanh while preserving spiritual customs passed down through generations. From presenting offerings at Quan Chao Temple to the incense offering, sacrificial rituals, and spirit possession ceremonies at Dau Temple, each rite holds distinct meaning, reflecting veneration of the deities, prayers for blessings, and wishes for a peaceful life.

A unique local pilgrimage custom is visiting Quan Chao Temple prior to arriving at Dau Temple. According to folk belief, this ritual is known as presenting one's name and identity before the shrine of the Father and Mother, demonstrating respect and requesting permission before entering the sanctuary of the Holy Mother.

Upon entering Dau Temple, pilgrims typically follow the sequence of rituals in accordance with temple customs and regulations. First, visitors offer incense at the outer worship area, praying with sincerity, before proceeding to perform ceremonies at the inner altars as guided by the site caretakers.

Offerings presented to the Holy Mother typically include fresh fruits, betel and areca, incense sticks, votive paper money, wine, sticky rice, boiled meat, petition sheets, and vibrantly colored artistic sugar cakes. Among these, red sugar cakes are commonly chosen to symbolize luck and peace. After preparing the offerings, pilgrims place them on the central altar, burn incense, recite prayers, and wait for one full incense stick to burn down before receiving the blessed offerings. Fruits and sweets are brought home as blessings, while petition papers and votive money are burned at the temple's designated area.

Alongside the incense offering rituals, the festival features religious practices such as spirit mediumship, incense burner consecration, and initiation ceremonies, reflecting the devotion of believers in the blessings of the Holy Mother while expressing hopes for a harmonious and peaceful life. According to local records and oral accounts, the festival historically included a procession of the Holy Mother statue from Quan Chao Temple to Dau Temple, along with character-forming formations depicting phrases such as "Mother of the Realm," "Peace Under Heaven," and "Good Neighbors Bring Virtue," as well as female-led sacrificial rites. While some traditional ceremonies are no longer performed regularly, preservation and restoration efforts are receiving significant attention.

Alongside the sacred rites, the festive part of the Dau Temple Festival brings a vibrant atmosphere filled with folk cultural activities and community celebrations. Performances of lion, dragon, and unicorn dances, spiritual Chau Van singing, and traditional games such as tug-of-war and human chess lend a lively color to the festivities. Although ancient practices such as statue processions and character formation are no longer common, the essence of traditional culture is preserved through activities suited to modern life.

During the festival, visitors also have the opportunity to learn about the history of the relic, the worship of the Holy Mother, and the local cultural lifestyle. If market stalls are set up, you can take the chance to explore, savor Ninh Binh specialties, and purchase traditional handicrafts. After attending the festival, visitors can extend their exploration of Ninh Binh with visits to Thung Nang, the Tam Coc – Bich Dong complex, or Tam Diep Pineapple Hill. The blend of spiritual spaces and breathtaking natural scenery makes for an enriching itinerary suitable for both families and groups of friends.

To ensure a fulfilling journey when attending the Dau Temple Festival, demonstrating reverence at the sacred shrine while traveling and sightseeing with ease, visitors should keep in mind the following practical tips:

• Order of visit: If combining visits to Quan Chao Temple and Dau Temple following local customs, you should research the proper sequence beforehand. When entering the worship areas, observe directional signage and carry out rituals in accordance with site regulations.

• Attire: Prioritize polite, modest clothing with understated colors; avoid overly short or sleeveless outfits when entering sacred sanctuaries.

• Etiquette: Maintain decorum, refrain from pushing or jostling, and do not move ritual objects or touch others' offerings. Additionally, dispose of trash in designated areas and follow the guidance of the management board.

• Offerings: Elaborate offering trays are not required. Fresh flowers, betel and areca nuts, fresh fruit, or simple offerings suitable to local customs are sensible choices. Visitors should also inquire about prices before purchasing items at stalls near the temple.

• Personal safety: During peak days, keep a close watch on mobile phones, wallets, and personal belongings. If traveling by personal vehicle, ask about parking fees beforehand.

• Transportation: Departing from Hanoi, visitors can take the expressway towards Ninh Binh – Tam Diep, then proceed to the temple area. If traveling by passenger bus, confirm with the bus operator that the drop-off point is near the site, rather than assuming all Hanoi – Tam Diep buses pass by the temple gates.

As a festival closely associated with the worship of Holy Mother Lieu Hanh, the Dau Temple Festival not only provides an occasion to pray for peace and good fortune, but also reflects the profound spiritual and cultural depth of the people of Ninh Binh. Through traditional ceremonies and folk cultural activities, the festival helps safeguard spiritual values cherished across generations. Amid the continued growth of tourism in Ninh Binh, the Dau Temple Festival is an ideal destination for those wishing to discover indigenous culture and immerse themselves in a community-centered spiritual space. Participating with respect and decorum is also how each visitor contributes to preserving and promoting a vibrant traditional festival that endures in modern life.